POWER WHEELS/PEG/Kid  Trax PROBLEMS FROM THE FACTORY:

• Jerky on/off throttle constantly gives riders whiplash

• Instant-on power over heat the motors and spins wheels which loudly grinds them down and destroys them over time and makes the car slower (cause spinnin' aint winnin')

• Top speeds which might be too fast for some riders and/or environments

• A hard brake which locks up the wheels and loudly destroys the wheels over time

• No remote brake control to stop the car

The factory setup is bad for every part in the car (except the wire), especially at 24v! The on/off throttle leads to massive 100+ amp spikes during start up which reduces run time, causes the motors to overheat and strains the gearboxes. When the motors are briefly drawing 1,000 watts each during instant start up while simultaneously outputting several hundred watts in excess heat that raises motor temperature dramatically which can lead to failure from internal melt down. The instant power also breaks wheel traction and makes the car louder and harder to control and can make technical/slow driving much harder.

The instant on power is the #1 problem with these cars and should always be the first problem to be fixed regardless of the battery voltage or other mods.

HOW THIS MODULE RESOLVES THESE PROBLEMS:

The Easy ESC module has two turn dials which adjust the top speed (0-100% of battery power) and acceleration rate (1-5 seconds). This may be a one-time adjustment or it can be changed constantly. Good settings will completely eliminate start up whiplash, eliminate wheel spin, increase launch speed and overall make the experience much smoother and more enjoyable. Finally the optional remote brake switch will activate the brake and sound a constant tone letting the rider know why the car has stopped.

This "EASY ESC" vs. FULL ESC KIT:

 The solution to the factory on/off throttle problem has always been the use of a variable speed ESC (electric speed controller). But, the downside to a full ESC system is it is a complete overhaul and can take several hours to install. This kit is an excellent middle ground between the extremely bad factory setup and the full featured variable speed ESC system. This kit is extremely simple to install and offers good but relatively simple control over the car compared to traditional/full ESC system that has a true variable throttle and a separate brake pedal. Overall this "Easy ESC" setup is extremely easy to install and is good for open areas/cruising and a mild acceleration rate will prevent part failures while the full ESC kits are more involved to install but will provide more advanced control for a variety of driving conditions, especially slow/technical terrain but abuse of the variable throttle can lead to part failures.

PARTS IN THE KIT:

Adjustable Tuner Module (6x5x2”)
Speed and Acceleration Adjustment Knobs
Terminated Battery and Motor Hookup Wire (ready for hookup)
Resettable Circuit Breaker
3-Prong Charge Port
Mounting Screws
(Optional) Remote Brake Switch
(Optional) 24v Charger

WHAT ELSE YOU WILL NEED:

Batter(ies)

The most common battery capacity is 12AH (amp hour) which typically provides about 45 minutes of run time (this can vary widely based on usage). For more run time 18AH typically provides about 60 minutes of run time. Make sure you have room for the batteries! 12AH batteries are 6x4x4” each and weigh 9 pounds each. 18AH batteries are 7x3x6.5” each and weigh 12 pounds each.

You can reuse the Power Wheels factory battery but this will require cutting of the factory harness to connect it to the module. If you change the factory motors to 775 size it is possible to trip the internal fuse within the factory battery which will cause the car to periodically stop. To remedy this you will need to turn down the speed/acceleration or purchase after market batteries. The replacement battery must be a SLA (sealed lead acid) and not a wet/serviceable (lawn mower) battery which could leak acid. 

Motors/Gearboxes

The first gear is the the least likely gear to fail in the gearbox, by far, so the stock gearboxes are the best option to use.

In most cases with average usage, gear breakage is rare. If you do break gears factory replacements are widely available for relatively inexpensive prices. In our experience the most common reason for broken gears is significant changes in momentum while in motion such as a sudden significant changes in terrain, significant ruts or bumps, overloading or adding rear rubber traction which is not recommended. Smooth even terrain is the least demanding on the gears.

The PW factory motors (550 size) are OK to use in most cases with the acceleration rate set at 3+ seconds. 775 motor size run cooler than the factory 550s at 24v (and have much more torque) but as long as the factory motors do not see more than average usage with a 3+ second acceleration rate they likely will not overheat but this will vary from case to case.

BEFORE YOU BUY:

Determine where the parts will go. The module is 6x5x2” and should be stored in a dry area such as under the seat. The battery size depends on the capacity you choose. You can re-use the factory battery as long as you do not make any other changes such as larger 775 motors which will likely trip the factory battery's internal fuse which will cause the car to periodically stop. The most common capacity 12v replacement battery is 12AH (the factory battery has 9.5AH capacity) but for more run time you could choose 18AH. 12AH batteries are 6x4x4” each, weigh 9 pounds each and last 45 minutes or longer depending on usage. 18AH batteries are 7x3x6.5” each, weigh 12 pounds each and last 60 minutes or longer depending on usage. The type of battery should be SLA (sealed lead acid) not a wet/serviceable battery which can leak acid.

INSTALL OVERVIEW:

Installation typically takes 30-60 minutes. The only required tool is a phillips driver. Recommended tools are a drill (11mm or 7/16" for the resettable fuse, 16mm or 5/8" for the charge port), crimper/stripper to custom cut and crimp the 4 install wires (but leaving the wires as they ship and coiling any loose wire is OK), long phillips driver and a flat head driver to help car disassembly. The steps in short are: disconnect the battery, mount the module in a dry protected area and leave the screw terminals accessible. Disassemble the factory pedal assembly to expose the harness below the pedal and disconnect it from the pedal. Run the heavy red and orange wires from the module to the pedal and connect them to the harness and match the wire colors. Zip tie these module wires to the factory wires close to where they connect to keep the union intact. Run the light gauge red and black wires to the pedal and connect them to the middle terminal and the terminal furthest from the middle terminal (this is critical, if the center and closer terminal are used the car will be turned on when the pedal is not pressed). Drill a hole for the charge port (11mm or 7/16"), remove the charge port nut, insert the charge port wires through the hole, slide the nut around the wires and tighten the nut. Then insert the terminals into the attached terminal housing but be careful to match the polarity with the white 2-wire terminal on the module! Finally run the heavy red and black wires to the batter(ies), connect them (a tiny spark/snap during battery hookup is normal!). Test the cars operation while the wheels are off the ground at 100% speed & 5 second acceleration, the wheels should slowly rev up to 2x factory speed at this setting.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

Can I use this kit with brands other than Power Wheels, Peg and Kid Trax?
Yes. You can install the kit on any (non-circuit board) electric ride-on that was 12-24 volts from the factory but the install procedure may be different – please contact us for non Power Wheels/Peg Perego/Kid Trax compatibility questions. Check the photos on this product page for the hookup diagrams for Peg/Kid Trax.

** Not compatible with Power Wheel cars with circuit boards: "Smart Drive Mustang"/"Wild Thing"/"Boomerang" ** Not compatible with Peg Perego cars with circuit boards "Sportsman 800/850 Twin"/"Ranger RZR" (900 RZR is ok)/"Gaucho Super Power" **

 Do I need to upgrade the stock motors/gearboxes?
 The factory gearboxes should be reused, there are no "upgraded" gearboxes worth the investment. The smallest/first gear is the least likely, by far, to fail.

To keep the motors cool we recommend a 3+ second acceleration rate. Motor heat sinks and fans are not effective at cooling brushed motors and if improperly installed can cause overheating! Brushed motor heat is dissipated by the internal fan not the external case so attempting to cool a brushed motor from the outside is like trying to cool a closed oven with a fan. The true solution to cooling down an oven is to turn down the heat! You turn down the heat in brushed motors by reducing the acceleration demand which is what this module resolves like nothing available on the market. There is no other solution that allows you to reduce the acceleration rate which is what makes this unit unique and critical for this application and should be the first step in any modifying project. Please see our Motor & Gearbox Information page for more information.

Can I use a single 12v battery or two in series (24v) with the kit?
 YES. The module can accept 12v, 18v or 24v battery sources.
Are instructions included with the kit?
We provide written instructions and wiring diagrams (above) as well as support via email.

OUR GUARANTEE:

We 100% guarantee that this kit will meet or exceed your expectations. We stand behind the parts we sell and if you experience any issues or are not satisfied please contact us for a return, exchange or other solution. Our success has been a result of customer satisfaction so it is our priority to ensure our customers are happy. Regarding returns, generally if you make a mistake (change your mind, etc) you pay for return shipping, if we make a mistake we will cover all shipping.