DIY (Parts Only)
12/18/24 Volt - 1,000 Watt
Variable Speed "ESC" Kit
For Power Wheels and the like
Also Works With Kid Trax, Peg Perego, Avigo, And More!
"The 24 Volt Upgrade Done Right."
WHAT IS THIS?
This is an "ESC" (electronic speed control) upgrade kit for Power Wheels (or other electric toy cars) that will replace all factory wiring and add:
Separate Brake Pedal
Double the Speed (Of 12v cars)
Remote Kill Switch
Easy Accessory Hook-up (LED Headlights, Underglow, Radio, etc)
Simply adding another 12 volt battery to a 12 volt car will make the car hard to control and will damage the parts over-time by wearing out the tires quickly, breaking gears more often (even in "upgraded" gearboxes) and possibly causing the factory gas pedal to weld wide-open. The variable throttle provides a gradual start-up instead of instant-on power that will provide more driver control, a more comfortable ride and will be easier on the factory parts. This DIY Parts-Only Version can be assembled with basic tools to add this advanced functionality (no soldering required). We also sell these parts in pre-assembled Plug-and-Play form.
The 1,000 watt controller delivers 50% more power (torque) throughput than the traditional and more common 500w controllers and as a result is 35% faster around our track.
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." -Enzo Ferrari
The kit includes a variable metal throttle and metal brake pedal which are easy to mount and are easy to depress which makes throttle control very easy.
This 1,000 watt controller has a mild 1.5 second soft-start which makes launch speeds faster (cause spinnin' aint winnin'), extends tire life and reduces neck-snapping starts which is more comfortable for riders (all shown above).
"After I eight footed him it was over."
Remote Kill Switch (typically has 200-300 foot range *please test range first*)
Backup Buzzer (drive direction reminder which makes car much safer)
Posi-Traction (No more One-Wheel-Peel)
Easy to Add Accessories (such as LEDs, motor fans, thermal sensors and other accessories)
We offer many LEDs and illuminated switches that can be used to expand this ESC system
The controller has several fail-safe features which are normally exclusively found in high-end controllers (which can cost more then this entire kit).
If the controller senses a failure it will disconnect itself. If the throttle pedal is depressed when the power is turned on the car will not take off but instead not respond until the throttle is first released. The module includes a remote kill switch which typically works from 200-300 feet away (please test before assuming the range for your location). Hold down the wireless remote button to stop the car, release the button to release the car. The receivers are programmable so a wireless remote could stop multiple cars at the same time or multiple remotes can stop the same car(s).
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE PARTS
(Since this photo was taken a few parts have been added, removed or upgraded)
The DIY kit includes a metal variable throttle and brake pedals. Wire and terminals are top quality, American-made, highly conductive and corrosion resistant. There are (3) 40 amp relays which add fail-safe, brake and reverse functionality. Motors easily hookup to the screw terminals. All connections are made with crimp connectors - no soldering required. A brake dampener softens the braking effect which reduces wheel lock up and is easier on the gearboxes, tires and riders. Kit includes 2 fuses, wire management and battery hold down parts.
PARTS IN THE KIT:
12-36v 1,000 Watt Motor Controller
Metal Variable Throttle and Metal Brake Pedal
Power Block (For easy hookup, testing and expansion)
(3) 40 Amp Relays (For fail-safe, reverse and brake functionality)
80+ American-Made Crimp Terminals (Nylon insulated, top quality.)
18 Gauge American-Made Hook-Up Wire (Corrosion resistant, top quality.)
12 Gauge American-Made Hook-Up Wire (Extremely flexible, 50A@30C, top quality.)
Optional Variable Sized Drill Bit (For mounting switch(es), LEDs and running wires)
Male Charge Port (24v charger should have female port, charger offered as addon)
Wireless Kill Switch Trigger + Lanyard (Includes special 12v trigger battery)
Battery Hold Down Parts (Adhesive velcro, anchors and anchor screws)
Wire Management Parts (Zip ties, anchors and screws)
40 Amp Resettable Fuse, 3 Amp Mini Blade Fuse
Voltage Regulators (For system stability)
Illuminated Toggle Power Switch
Diodes + Resistor
BEFORE YOU BUY:
Determine where the parts will go. The controller is 5.5x4x2" and the relay group 3x6x4.5". The controller must be mounted in the rear of the car, away from the motors which will move slightly during use and away from areas which could be exposed to water (the car should always be stored under cover). The battery size depends on the capacity you choose. Unfortunately you cannot use the factory battery because they typically have an internal self-resetting fuse which will cause the car to randomly stop. The most common capacity 12v battery is 12AH but for more run time you could choose 18AH. 12AH batteries are 6x4x4” each, weigh 9 pounds each and last 45 minutes or longer depending on usage. 18AH batteries are 7x3x6.5” each, weigh 12 pounds each and last 60 minutes or longer depending on usage. The type of battery should be SLA (sealed lead acid). There are cheap options such as eBay but these do not always come with good QC or customer support. If you prefer excellent customer support we recommend 12vCustoms. If they can fit, both batteries should be stored in the rear of the car with the controller and relays. Please measure the rear cavity and determine where the batteries will go before placing your order. If necessary, one or both batteries can be stored in the front of the car. Please indicate the battery location during checkout so your order includes enough wire.
Installation typically takes 2-4 hours. Required tools are only a crimper/stripper and a phillips driver/power drill. Recommended tools are a variable sized drill bit, multimeter, long phillips driver and a flat head driver. The steps in short are: disassemble the car and remove all factory wires except the motor wires. Remove the factory pedal but keep the factory shifter. Dry fit the parts in the rear of the car to determine their proximity and orientation. Assemble most of the parts using the diagrams below on the bench keeping in mind their orientation during dry fit. Mount the assembled controller + relay module, pedals, lights and switches and run the wires to the module and connect them to the power block.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
(Q) Can I use this kit with a brand other than Power Wheels? (A) Yes. You can install the kit on any electric ride-on that was 12-24 volts from the factory. Cars with advanced functions such as R/C typically have to sacrifice these features to use the kit. The parts in the kit will replace everything between the batteries and motors so the parts could be installed on a cardboard box if it had wheels and 12v motors. It is possible to power the factory 12v accessories off the module - please contact us for this and other special build requests.(Q) Do I need to upgrade the stock motors/gearboxes? (A) No. Typically the factory gearboxes and motors do fine with normal flat lawn usage. Please see our Motor & Gearbox Information page for more information.(Q) Can I use a single 12v battery or 18v instead of 24v with the kit? (A) YES. Although this controller does not support a top speed governor (which was used with the 500w controllers) it can accept 12v, 18v or 24v battery sources which will determine the top speed of the motors at 1x, 1.5x or 2x factory speed of 12v cars. (It can also accept 36v but this should only be used for builds with scooter motors, please contact us about special build requests). As a side note unfortunately it is not possible to reuse the 12v factory battery as most have an internal self-resetting fuse which will randomly stop the car.(Q)Are instructions included with the kit? (A) We provide written instructions and wiring diagrams (below) as well as provide support via email. Video install instructions are coming in the month of April 2017.
DETAILED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
· Disassemble the car. Tools that are useful for this step are a flat head screwdriver and a long phillips driver. Sometimes screws holding body panels can be found under stickers. Sometimes panels need to be removed in a certain order. Do not force panels off and look closely for hidden screws.
· Remove all factory wiring except the motor leads. Leave the motor leads as long as possible. We recommend keeping the factory harness. Remove the factory gas pedal. Leave the factory shifter.
· Dry fit the batteries, controller and relays. The controller and relay group must be placed in the rear of the car within reach of the motor wires. Please choose a location that will not be exposed to water if the car is accidentally left out. Please consider where rain drains through the car and make sure the floor has holes so the water does not pool on or around the module which could damage it. Under the seat or on the back wall between the motors is typically a good location. Please note the motors will move slightly during use so avoid close contact with them or the motor leads. If possible the batteries should also be mounted in the rear of the car as well. If necessary one or both batteries can be mounted in the front of the car (which you should indicate during checkout). Sometimes cutting is required for one or both batteries to fit. Do not connect the batteries yet. Use the battery hold down parts to secure the batteries. There are loops that mount to the floor and a velcro strap which loops through the loops and around the batteries. There is also adhesive velcro included which should be used between the batteries and also on top under the velcro strap. 1-2" pieces are enough to prevent the batteries from shifting during use. It is critical to secure the batteries well otherwise if they shift or move during use they can damage wires or other system parts.
· Bench Assembly. Follow the diagrams (below) to connect the motor controller, relays, voltage regulator and kill switch then mount this group in the rear of the car.
· Mount the brake and throttle pedals. The throttle pedal may require some cutting of the floor. Tools to consider for the job: box cutter, Dremel tool, drill with cutting bit, vibrating saw. The pedal orientation can be placed with the hinge at the top or bottom and the mounting tabs and pedal lever can both be bent to increase mounting options. Channellock’s are good for bending the tabs. The brake pedal can also be mounted in either orientation. Running wires under the car should be avoided, it is best to use factory wire channels whenever possible. Run the wires back to the module and connect them to the power block. Leave wire management for the end of the install.
· Mount the power switch, charge port and optional LEDs. Use the recommended variable drill bit or the like to drill holes for these parts. Please be aware of the hole size required and notice the bit has diameter markings. It is easier to drill more than less. Know your target and beyond! Always consider what is behind the location where you are drilling, know the depth of the part and consider the parts that have already been removed from the car which may cause interference. Using masking tape on the mounting surface can avoid scratches during drilling. Once these parts are mounted connect the wires to the power block in the rear of the car. Leave enough wire to avoid issues during reassembly. When running wires do not fish wires between body panels which will move slightly and can severe them during use. Use the factory wire channels or drill holes when running wires. Leave wire management for the end of the install.
· Run shifter wire to shifter. Leave this connection loose by the shifter until the testing phase. Make sure the terminals are not touching (if they touch reverse will be activated, it will not harm anything).
· Connect the motors to the motor power block. There are 4 screw terminals for the motors. The two terminals on the left are for one more, two on the right for the other. Please keep the pair of wires together, if one motor lead goes on the left pair and the other on the right pair the car will not work. Motor polarity at this point is not important.
· Connect the batteries. After all connections are made check the battery polarity is correct. Red is positive, black is negative. Reversing the battery polarity can permanently damage the controller. The positive connection on the controller should connect to the positive side of battery A and the negative module connection should connect to negative side of battery B. Then connect the positive and negative on battery A and B together. This will connect the batteries in series and provide 24 volts to the controller. Before making the final battery connection, please ensure the power switch is off (0).
· Test the system. Power on the car. You should hear a click which indicates that the controller does not sense a problem and has powered on. If you do not hear a click please power off and check all connections. The minimal connections required for the controller to power on are: batteries, power switch, brake and throttle pedals. Once on, lift the wheels off the ground and apply the throttle. Both wheels should be spinning forward. If either wheel is spinning backwards, disconnect the batteries and reverse the leads for that motor on the motor power block. Connect the batteries and test the wheel direction again. Then apply throttle and press the brake. The wheels should stop and you should hear a click which is the brake relay activating. If brake LED’s are installed they should illuminate.
· Hookup the shifter. While the car is on, shift into reverse. There are typically 2 or 3 switches inside the shifter which should each have 6 terminals (a DPDT switch). There is typically a line separating 3 terminals from the other 3. The terminals on the top and bottom of this line have the same function so only test the top or bottom 3. Gently hold one shifter wire terminal onto the center terminal of a switch then touch the other shifter wire terminal to one of the outside terminals. Then try the center terminal and the other outside terminal. You want to find a combination where the backup buzzer beeps. Then once you have found a position where it beeps, keep the wires connected and shift into forward – if the beeper stops you have found the right combination. There are typically only 4 or 6 possible combinations if you follow these steps. If your shifter is different simply try different combinations until the module beeps in the reverse position but not in the forward position(s).
· Wire management. Once all connections are made and tested use the wire management parts to secure the wires. This should be the absolute last step. Group the wires together and zip tie them together and use the zip tie anchors where appropriate to limit wire movement during use.
· Reassemble. Carefully reassemble the car and be careful not to force body panels which might interfere with the new wires. If that is the case carefully move wires out of the way during reassembly.
· You’re done.
We 100% guarantee that this kit will meet or exceed your expectations. We stand behind the parts we sell and if you experience any issues or are not satisfied please contact us. Our success has been a result of customer satisfaction. It is our priority to ensure our customers are happy. Regarding returns, generally if you make a mistake (change your mind, etc) you pay for return shipping, if we make a mistake we will cover all shipping.
Any questions, comments or concerns please contact us anytime - we would be happy to hear from you.
DIY - 12/18/24 Volt 1,000 Watt Variable Speed ESC Kit for Power Wheels (Parts Only)
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- Availability: In Stock