~In Stock, Orders May Ship as Late as One Week After Ordering~
Plug & Play
24 Volt 1,000 Watt
Variable Speed ESC Kit
Also Works With Kid Trax, Peg Perego, Avigo, And More!
The 24 volt upgrade done right (and now easier!).
WHAT IS THIS?
This is a 24v upgrade kit for Power Wheels or other electric cars that will add a variable throttle, separate brake pedal and double the speed of 12v cars to about 10mph. The variable throttle allows for much more driver control but also makes startup speed gradual instead of instant-on which is more comfortable for riders and easier on the factory parts. The system also adds a remote kill switch and optional fully functional LED set that can include brake and reverse lights. This Plug and Play version includes a pre-wired and pre-terminated module and supporting parts which simply plug together to add this advanced functionality. We also sell these parts in DIY form.
The 1,000 watt controller delivers 50% more power (torque) throughput than 500w controllers and as a result is 35% faster around our track.
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." -Enzo Ferrari
The kit includes a variable metal throttle and metal brake pedal which are easy to mount and easy to depress which makes throttle control very easy.
The 1,000w controller has a mild 1.5 second soft-start which makes launch speeds faster and extends tire life by reducing initial grinding wheel spin.
"After I eight footed him it was over."
Remote Kill Switch (typically has 200-300 foot range *please test range first*)
Backup Buzzer (drive direction reminder makes the car much safer)
Posi-Traction (No More One-Wheel-Peel)
Optional Fully Functional Light Set
Many LED and switch options are available in our store which simply plug into the module (please choose the Plug and Play option when adding parts to your cart)
The controller has several fail-safe features which are normally exclusively found in high-end controllers (which cost more alone then this entire kit).
If the controller senses a failure it will shut itself down. If the throttle pedal is depressed when the power is turned on the car will not take off but will not respond until the throttle is first released. The module includes a remote kill switch which typically works from 200-300 feet away (please test before assuming the range for your location). Hold down the wireless remote button to stop the car, release the button to release the car. The switches are programmable so a wireless remote could stop multiple cars at the same time.
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE PARTS
The module is built with high quality parts. All terminals are American-made highly conductive and weather resistant. There are (3) 40 amp relays which add fail-safe, brake and reverse functionality. Stock or aftermarket motors easily hookup to the module screw terminals.
A brake dampener softens the braking effect which reduces wheel lock up and is easier on the gearboxes, tires and riders.
All pre-terminated connections are unique so it is physically impossible to make a mistake during the install. The image above shows the standard Key, Brake and Reverse connections as well as the optional LED harness connections (please select the LED harness option when adding the kit to your cart, then head over to the LED and Switch sections to add these parts to your order. Please select the Plug and Play option to have the parts pre-wired for the module).
PARTS IN THE KIT:
Module (Controller 5.5x4x2", Relay Group 3x6x4.5", 5" apart to increase mounting options)
Metal Brake and Gas Pedals
Reverse Wire Hookup (connects to stock shifter)
Battery Hold Down Parts (adhesive velcro, velcro anchors + anchor screws)
Wire Management Parts (zip ties, zip tie anchors + anchor screws)
Basic Toggle Switch for Power (unless a power switch is purchased from the store)
Wireless Kill Switch Trigger + Lanyard (includes special trigger battery)
Male Charge Port (24v charger should have female port, charger not included)
Pedal and Module mounting screws
Variable Sized Hole Drill Bit for mounting switch(es), optional LEDs and running wires
Battery Hookup Wire
LED harnesses to connect optional LED's to the module
BEFORE YOU BUY:
Determine where the parts will go. The controller is 5.5x4x2" and the relay group 3x6x4.5", 5" apart. The module must be mounted in the rear of the car, away from the motors which will move slightly during use and away from areas which could be exposed to water (the car should always be stored under cover). The battery size depends on the capacity you choose. Unfortunately you cannot use the original battery because they have an internal self resetting fuse. The most common capacity is 12AH but for more run time you could choose 18AH. 12AH batteries are 6x4x4” each, weigh 9 pounds each and last 30 minutes or longer depending on usage. 18AH batteries are 7x3x6.5” each, weigh 12 pounds each and last 45 minutes or longer depending on usage. The type of battery should be SLA (sealed lead acid). There are cheap options such as eBay but these do not always come with good QC or customer support. If you prefer excellent customer support we recommend 12vCustoms. If they can fit, both batteries should be stored in the rear of the car with the module. Please measure the rear cavity and determine where the batteries will go before placing your order. If necessary one or both batteries can be stored in the front of the car. Please indicate the battery location when adding the kit to your cart.
Installation typically takes 60-90 minutes but this can vary based on the car since the majority of the job is partial disassembly. The steps in short are: disassemble the car and remove all factory wires except the motor wires. Mount the module, pedals, lights and switches. Run the pre-terminated wires to the module and connect them. Connect the motors to the module's screw terminals. After some quick testing you are done. Detailed instructions of the install are below.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
(Q) Can I use this kit with a brand other than Power Wheels? (A) Yes. You can install the kit on any electric ride-on that was 12-24 volts from the factory since doubling the voltage on brushed motors is typically OK. Cars with advanced functions such as R/C typically have to sacrifice these features to use the kit. The parts in the kit will replace everything between the batteries and motors. It is possible to power the factory 12v accessories off the module - please contact us for this and other special build requests.(Q) Do I need to upgrade the stock motors/gearboxes? (A) Overvolting the factory 12v motors to 24v is often fine overtime but longevity ultimately depends on ambient temperature, motor airflow, duration of constant use, rider weight, terrain type, etc. For example, stock motors on a flat lawn with normal usage is typically fine but a 30 minute tear through the woods with rear rubber traction might not end well. In other words if the plastic gears and relatively small motors are abused, they may fail. Larger "775" size motors have more torque and run cooler at higher voltages but are slightly slower. Most 775s are about 20% slower than stock "550" size but our 775s are only 10% slower than stock but can be 50% more powerful. Generally 550s run fast but hot with less power and sometimes more prone to melting while 775s run slower with much more power and run cooler which is why we recommend 775 motors at 24v. Please note that all Power Wheels come with 550 size but can accept either a 550 or 775 motor. Most other brands come with 550 and can only accept a 550 motor size. If you need more help in this area please contact us. Unfortunately there is no bulletproof solution available for Power Wheels gearboxes. The current generation of Power Wheels gearboxes (7R) are stronger than the previous (#7) which was discontinued years ago. The easiest way to tell them apart is the new 7Rs have groupings of numbers stamped on them such as 15-16-17, 21-22-23. We recommend buying a spare gearbox which can be used for parts if and when a gear is broken (all gears in the gearbox can break). For easy gear changes we recommend using the wheel retainers which can be found in our store. Finally, we find that uneven terrain that has ruts, bumps or other sudden drops seem to break the plastic gears much more than flat terrain. Also, the number one cause of motor failure is over stressing from constant stop and go, hilly terrain, too much weight, etc which can cause the motors to build up heat and internally melt down. This can be combated by opening the motor cavity with a hole saw, install a motor temperature monitor, motor heatsink/fan, upgrade to 775, avoid hills, etc but in most cases cooling is not needed.(Q) Can I reuse the factory battery? (A) NO. It is not possible to reuse the 12v factory battery as most have an internal self-resetting fuse which will not allow the amp draw that the ESC requires and the car will randomly start and stop as the fuse trips under load.(Q)Are instructions included with the kit? (A) We provide written instructions (below) as well as provide support via email.
We 100% guarantee that this kit will meet or exceed your expectations. We stand behind the parts we sell and if you experience any issues or are not satisfied please contact us. Our success has been a result of customer satisfaction. It is our priority to ensure our customers are happy. Regarding returns, generally if you make a mistake (change your mind, etc) you pay for return shipping, if we make a mistake we will cover all shipping.
· Disassemble the car. Tools that are useful for this step are a flat head screwdriver and a long phillips driver. Sometimes screws holding body panels can be found under stickers. Sometimes panels need to be removed in a certain order. Do not force panels off and look closely for hidden screws.
· Remove all factory wiring except the motor leads. Leave the motor leads as long as possible. We recommend keeping the factory harness. Remove the factory gas pedal. Leave the factory shifter.
· Place the batteries and module. The module must be placed in the rear of the car within reach of the motor wires. Please choose a location that will not be exposed to water if the car is accidentally left out. Please consider where rain drains through the car and make sure the floor has holes so the water does not pool on or around the module which could damage it. Under the seat or on the back wall between the motors is typically a good location. Please note the motors will move slightly during use so avoid close contact with the motors or motor leads. If possible the batteries should also be mounted in the rear of the car as well. If necessary one or both batteries can be mounted in the front of the car (which you should indicate during checkout). Sometimes cutting is required for one or both batteries to fit. Do not connect the batteries yet. Use the battery hold down parts to secure the batteries. There are rings that mount to the floor and a velcro strap which loops through the rings and around the batteries. There is also adhesive velcro included which should be used between the batteries and also on top under the velcro strap. 1-2" pieces are enough to prevent the batteries from shifting during use. It is very important to secure the batteries that can damage parts if they shift when the car is being carried or used.
· Mount the pedals. The throttle pedal may require some cutting of the floor. Tools to consider for the job: box cutter, Dremel tool, drill with cutting bit, vibrating saw. Heating the plastic before it is cut can generate toxic fumes. The pedal orientation can be placed with the hinge at the top or bottom and the mounting tabs and pedal lever can both be bent to increase mounting options. Channellock’s are good for bending the tabs. The brake pedal can also be mounted in either orientation. Any wires run under the car should be secured so they do not get snagged while in use! Run the wires back to the module and connect them. Leave wire management for the end of the install.
· Mount the switch(es) and optional LEDs. Use the included variable drill bit to drill holes for these parts. Please be aware of the hole size required and notice the bit has diameter markings. It is easier to drill more than less. Know your target and beyond! Always consider what is behind the location where you are drilling, know the depth of the part and consider the parts that have already been removed from the car which may cause interference. Once mounted connect the wires to the module. When running wires do not fish wires between body panels which can severe them during use. Use the factory wire channels or drill holes when running wires. Leave wire management for the end of the install.
· Run shifter wire to shifter. Leave this connection loose until the testing phase. Make sure the terminals are not touching (if they touch reverse will be activated).
· Connect the motors to the module. There are 4 screw terminals on the module for the motors. The two terminals on the left are for one more, two on the right for the other. Please keep the pair of wires together, if one motor lead goes on the left pair and the other on the right pair the car will not work. Motor polarity at this point is not important.
· Connect the batteries. After all connections are made check the battery polarity is correct. Red is positive, black is negative. Reversing the battery polarity can permanently damage the controller. The positive module connection on the controller should connect to the positive side of battery A and the negative module connection should connect to negative side of battery B. Then connect the positive and negative on battery A and B together. This will connect the batteries in series and provide 24 volts to the controller. Before making the final battery connection, please ensure the power switch is off (0).
· Test the module. Power on the car. You should hear a click which indicates that the controller does not sense a problem and has powered on. If you do not hear a click please power off and check all connections. Once on, lift the wheels off the ground and apply the throttle. Both wheels should be spinning forward. If either wheel is spinning backwards disconnect the battery and reverse the leads for that motor on the module. Connect the battery and test the wheel direction again. Then apply throttle and press the brake. The wheels should stop and you should hear a click which is the brake relay activating. If brake LED’s are installed they should illuminate.
· Hookup the shifter. While the car is on, shift into reverse. There are typically 2 or 3 switches inside the shifter which should each have 6 terminals (a DPDT switch). There is typically a line separating 3 terminals from the other 3 – the terminals on the top and bottom of this line have the same function so only test the top or bottom 3. Gently hold one shifter wire terminal onto the center terminal of the switch then touch the other shifter wire terminal to the outside terminal. Then try the center terminal and the other outside terminal. You want to find a combination where the backup buzzer beeps. Then once you have found a position where it beeps, shift into forward – if the beeper stops you have found the right combination. There are typically only 4 or 6 possible combinations if you follow these steps. If your shifter is different simply try different combinations until the module beeps in the reverse position but not in the forward position(s).
· Wire management. Once all connections are made and tested use the wire management parts to secure the wires. This should be the absolute last step. Group the wires together and zip tie them together and use the zip tie anchors where appropriate to limit wire movement during use.
· Reassemble. Carefully reassemble the car and be careful not to force body panels which might interfere with the new wires. If that is the case carefully move wires out of the way during reassembly.
· You’re done.
Any questions please ask anytime - we would love to hear from you.
ESC Kit - Plug and Play - 12/18/24 Volt 1,000 Watt Variable Speed
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- Availability: In Stock